Diamonds are forever, but colourful gemstones are now

Colourful gemstones are de rigueur at the moment, with jewellery houses like Pomellato, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari crafting statement jewellery with brightly hued, luminescent gemstones. As much as white diamonds still dominate the market in Hong Kong, we’ve seen demand rise for louder, more colourful stones, following a bigger global trend in jewellery.

Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier are go-tos for decadence. New life is being breathed into their aesthetic with collections inspired by the Indian subcontinent, North Africa and the parts of Asia. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Egyptian collection features stunning band bracelets and brooches decorated with onyx, rubies and diamonds set to depict anecdotal scenes from the mythical Ancient World.

Cartier’s Panthere collection has gone even bolder, celebrating the brand’s predatory icon with animalistic ring, and wraparound bracelets featuring emeralds for eyes, an onyx and tsavorite muzzle and a diamond-set coat.

Bulgari, meanwhile, seems to be championing trends circulated by local designers with a range of simpler designs. The label’s MVSA range of bracelets and necklaces focuses on the beauty of the stone, setting standout combinations of amethyst, chalcedony, blue topaz, pink tourmaline and pavé diamonds in 18-carat pink and white gold drop earrings, bracelets and rings.

Designers in Hong Kong and China have clocked onto the trend for coloured gemstones. Environmentally conscious jewellery label Niin offers an eclectic range of “healing stones” set in bracelets, rings and brooches among other designs, and prides itself on using only natural materials in its accessories. Ame Gallery specialises in artisanal jewellery, working with local artists to create pieces of eccentric, colourful “wearable art” and, celebrating 25 years in the city, Tayma is Hong Kong’s namesake for majestic cocktail rings and exuberantly hued earrings.

Joanne Ooi, creative director of online jewellery retailer Plukka, says that it’s not always the most popular precious stone that makes the biggest impact. “Diamonds are gorgeous, but they’re essentially colourless. The use of coloured gemstones allows us to create a rainbow of colours within our design and creative palette,” she says. “Ear pieces, both drop earrings – especially those featuring intensely hued gemstones like emeralds, tanzanites and tsavorites – and ear cuffs, are always a top seller at Plukka.”