Why expensive shampoos aren’t always the best for your hair

Ornate packaging paired with enticing advertisements that claim expensive shampoos are elixirs for all hair woes can leave one wondering: are the higher prices really worth it? Should I abandon my cheaper mainstay for a more expensive premium brand? Experts say affordable shampoos and conditioners found in supermarkets and chemists can do the job just as well as the pricey versions. They advise consumers to evaluate the ingredients in products, their own scalp and hair concerns, and their entire hair care routine – and to check with a doctor when in doubt. Premium brands can work well, and some have active ingredients that cost more, according to dermatologists. Other factors influencing the price include the size of the company and whether it has invested in organic ingredients, sustainable agriculture and recycled materials. Tips for your hair type Dr Crystal Aguh, dermatologist and director of the Ethnic Skin Programme at the Johns Hopkins School of Medicine, says she generally categorises people into two hair types: damage-prone and damage-resistant. Damage-prone people include those with very curly hair, those who chemically treat their hair and those who use hot tools to style it. She says damage-resistant attributes include oily hair and straight hair. People with damage-prone hair should avoid shampoos that have sodium lauryl sulphate as the main ingredient, Aguh says. It removes a lot of sebum, a natural oil that coats and protects hair. Without sebum, hair could feel very dry and break easily. For curly or dyed hair, Aguh recommends washing less frequently to avoid removing too much sebum. She says people with tightly curled or coily hair should only wash their hair once a week. People with wavy hair that is dyed might find it best to wash every two to three days. Damage-resistant hair that is oily and straight can be washed every day. Focus on the process, not the products Expensive shampoos and conditioners can work well, but there are affordable products that perform just as well, Aguh says. She tells patients that “it’s not the products, it’s the process” that affects hair health the most, including how often hair is washed, dyed or treated with heat. “Instead of spending hundreds of dollars thinking, ‘If I just find the right shampoo, right conditioner, all of my troubles will go away,’ you also have to just look at what your process looks like … because that will often do the trick,” she says. Aguh adds that it is fine to mix high-end and mass-market products, and that people should not feel compelled to buy an entire line of expensive products. She says some common brands are more affordable because they are made by large corporations that can achieve economies of scale. Sometimes expensive brands have a smaller team and lack the workforce and resources to reach those same cost advantages. When treating dandruff, Aguh often recommends over-the-counter shampoos instead of prescription formulas, but recommends seeing a doctor if dandruff problems persist. Shampoo is skincare for the scalp Dr Joe Tung, a dermatologist at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Centre in the US, says people should think of shampoo as skincare for the scalp, not just a cosmetic product. “Hair itself is biologically inactive once it grows out, but underneath the surface of the skin on the scalp is a full ecosystem with stem cells, immune cells, oil glands, nerve endings,” he says. “When that ecosystem is balanced, the scalp feels comfortable and hair grows optimally; when it is disrupted, people can experience itching, flaking, excess oil or hair loss.” Tung says people should consider what their scalp needs when choosing a shampoo, and a conditioner should be chosen based on hair texture and damage level. He says dandruff and itchiness benefit from shampoos that address inflammation and microbial imbalance, whereas dry or chemically treated hair can benefit from a gentle cleanser with a rich conditioner. He adds that expensive shampoos and conditioners are sometimes worth the price, but a product’s effectiveness is determined by its active ingredients and not its branding. “An antifungal ingredient works because of its molecular activity, not because it comes in a luxury bottle or from a prestigious brand,” he says. Expensive shampoos typically rely on more refined conditioning agents and soothing ingredients that may make frequent hair washing more comfortable, but some luxury products contain fragrances or botanical extracts that can irritate sensitive skin, Tung says. Simpler formulas are often better tolerated by people with sensitive skin.

Why expensive shampoos aren’t always the best for your hair

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Dermatologists explain why cheaper shampoos and simpler formulas can often be better for your hair and give tips for different hair types

Tips for your hair type

Dermatologists explain why cheaper shampoos and simpler formulas can often be better for your hair and give tips for different hair types