Profile | Donatella Versace, out at fashion label brother Gianni founded, overcame many obstacles

Donatella Versace is giving up the creative reins of luxury fashion label Versace after nearly three decades, effectively ending the family’s hold over the brand founded by her murdered brother. The platinum blonde fixture of Italian fashion, who turns 70 in May, will be succeeded by Miu Miu’s design director, Dario Vitale, in what some industry insiders see as a prelude to an acquisition of Versace by its larger rival Prada, which also owns Miu Miu. Meanwhile, Georgian designer Demna is leaving Balenciaga after a decade to become artistic director of Gucci, the French parent company of both brands, Kering, said. Versace welcomed Vitale, emphasising in a statement that “championing the next generation of designers has always been important to me’’, while Vitale, 41, thanked Versace for “her trust in me”. The new role as chief creative officer for Vitale – a respected but little-known designer who has overseen soaring sales at Miu Miu – represents a turning point for the Versace label, which was founded in 1978 by Versace’s older brother Gianni. The brand beloved by jet-setters, and famous for its Medusa logo, has weathered ups and downs in its decades on the fashion scene, but the vision and philosophy behind its showy, skin-baring looks have always been steered by a Versace. Donatella Versace will now become the label’s chief brand ambassador beginning on April 1, the same day Vitale takes over, owner Capri Holdings said. “It has been the greatest honour of my life to carry on my brother Gianni’s legacy. He was the true genius, but I hope I have some of his spirit and tenacity,” Versace said. Capri Holdings, which also owns Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors, has owned Versace since 2018, but has struggled to position the luxury label, with its sales sliding 15 per cent in its most recent third quarter. Prada is reportedly in advanced talks to acquire Versace, with Bloomberg reporting earlier this month a potential price of nearly €1.5 billion (US$1.6 billion). Versace overcame tragedy and self-doubt to reinvent herself as head of one of Italy’s leading fashion houses. One of the industry’s most recognisable figures, with her penchant for black leather and plastic surgery, Versace spent much of her early life as the self-styled muse to her older brother, who founded the flashy luxury label in 1978. But Gianni’s murder in Miami in the United States in 1997 at the hands of a serial killer thrust the youngest Versace sibling to the helm of the family fashion empire that was the darling of celebrities from actress Elizabeth Hurley to Britain’s Princess Diana and singer Elton John. Suddenly in the spotlight as new chief designer at 42, Versace faced the dual challenge of disproving those who believed the label would fail without Gianni, and finding her own voice. “I felt for a long time that I had this job because of a tragedy, not because I deserved it,” she said in a 2008 interview. “I wanted to succeed for Gianni because he cared so much for the company and I knew he would have wanted it to carry on. But I was frightened and I had no confidence.” Chain-smoking and petite – despite her habitual high heels – Versace had previously directed advertising campaigns and designed for ready-to-wear line Versus, but was unprepared to take over running the firm. And she struggled, plunging into a depression chronicled in celebrity magazines – and reflected in Versace’s business, where sales began declining and profits fell. After years of cocaine addiction, she went into rehab in 2004, encouraged by friends including Elton John. That same year she hired former Fendi head Giancarlo di Risio as chief executive officer. As Di Risio strove to cut costs, reinvigorate sales and restore profits, Versace began offering more sophisticated, wearable looks in contrast to what some critics had dismissed as more vulgar previous offerings. Out went the loud, colourful silk prints and decoration, in came more focus on cut and silhouette. Showstopping creations continued, nevertheless. Among Versace’s most famous creations was Jennifer Lopez’ green chiffon jungle print dress that sent photographers into a frenzy at the 2000 Grammy Awards for its plunging bodice. For a healing and celebratory tribute to Gianni Versace on the 20th anniversary of his death, Lopez wore an even skimpier version of the jungle dress and reprised it on the spring-summer 2020 runway. Versace, known for its Medusa head logo, expanded to serve a wider luxury market in areas such as home decor and also began to design jet and yacht interiors. In a recent interview with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, Donatella expressed her weariness with the fashion industry’s current upheaval. “Being told what to do, being told what’s going to sell … I think fashion is creativity and creativity is instinct. If you try to please too many people, too many managers, creativity is gone,” she said. Additional reporting by Reuters and Associated Press

Profile | Donatella Versace, out at fashion label brother Gianni founded, overcame many obstacles

Versace, 69, took over her brother’s label after his 1997 murder. Carrying on his legacy has been ’the greatest honour of my life’, she says