Fuji Rock gives lesser-known bands a stage

I love Fuji Rock. I love the people who go, the friends I've made there and the epic food, plus its location in the Japanese ski resort of Naeba is nothing short of stunning. The great line-up over three days in late July makes it the best outdoor music festival in Asia. "Forest, clouds, mountains … and plenty of smiles" - that's how Flaming Lips singer Wayne Coyne describes it.

Over the past 15 years, almost every major international act has graced Fuji Rock's seven main stages - and I feel so lucky that for the most part I've been there for the ride. This is a true giant on the festival circuit. But (after all that hyperbole, you knew there was a "but" coming, right?) on paper, the line-up of this year's festival - which took place last weekend - felt a bit underwhelming. Yes, the food and the people were always going to be awesome, but only Arcade Fire could arguably have been described as a band at the top of their game. And who was that scheduled to headline the Red Marquee on Saturday night? Was it really an 81-year-old Yoko Ono? Surely that was a cruel joke.

Maybe previous Fujis had spoiled me and I was becoming blasé? Or maybe, more than any other year, I needed to broaden my horizons and search out more obscure talent. Sometimes when big-name bands play festivals, expectations can be dashed and you miss out on the real highlights out of a sense of obligation.

So I have turned this absence of star power into an opportunity to explore. Armed with some substantial YouTube and Spotify research, I turn once-random names into my personal set of rock titans. I am ready to begin my journey into the Japanese Alps.

The festival doesn't officially start until Friday morning. But arriving at the grounds of this enormous site is always a magical feeling. There's a palpable sense of expectation for the weekend - and an inordinately long queue for merchandise. It's almost as if the participants feel they haven't been a part of Fuji Rock until they've got the T-shirt. Or perhaps it's because the hordes realise they're in for a sweaty few days and arrived with inadequate luggage.

In years past, I camped. As far as campsites go, it's fairly civilised, and even has its own onsen (communal bath) and a female-only section. But finding a plot on level ground can be a struggle - and rain is a constant threat. This year, I secure a small space on a tatami mat in a furniture-free room designed for people a lot shorter than me. Although I am sharing with four other middle-aged men, this is luxury compared to my battle-worn tent. After a few Echigo lagers and a wander around the site's expansive food court, it's refreshing to head back to the chalet. The transition from camping will not be difficult.