Meet the ‘sober sommeliers’ shaking up Hong Kong’s fine dining scene – from Roganic, Whey and others
As the wellness boom persists, more restaurants are concocting innovative non-alcoholic or zero-proof drink pairings for health-conscious diners
It’s a familiar scene: diners clinking glasses at one of Hong Kong’s top restaurants to celebrate a special occasion, or simply the arrival of the weekend. But these days, rather than the usual cocktail or wine, the vessels may be holding something unexpected – zero-proof creations selected especially for the meal.
Her journey into this emerging field was deeply personal. “I’ve struggled with eczema since childhood,” she says, explaining how this health challenge led her to reconsider alcohol consumption. At Roganic, she found a creative outlet: “Here, non-alcoholic pairings are an essential part of the experience, not just an afterthought.” Tam’s creations often incorporate childhood memories, like the coconut water her mother gave her during Hong Kong’s sweltering summers. She recently blended this with fermented marigold honey for a locally sourced tomato dish.
Their mutual understanding is almost telepathic. “I literally finish his sentences – but with flavours instead of words,” says Hui of his collaboration with Quek. The moment Quek decided to thicken the sauce of his lo hei dish, Dino was already adjusting his fermented guava juice pairing, boosting the camomile notes to cut through the richer texture.
Hui’s approach also celebrates his roots while embracing experimentation. He reaches for Luk On tea leaves instead of conventional Puer in his pairings, in a nod to his family’s cha chaan teng milk tea recipe. Not every trial succeeds – a spring onion fermentation attempt remains his most memorable failure – but these challenges only fuel his drive to innovate. “Everything is part of our R&D,” he insists, his eyes lighting up. “The sky’s the limit for inspiration – whether it’s childhood memories or event leftovers.”