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The rise of neighbourhood bars in Hong Kong, from Honky Tonks Tavern and The Pontiac to Bar Leone

The city’s bar scene is shifting from high-end molecular mixology to cosy neighbourhood watering holes that offer a welcoming and community-focused atmosphere

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Bar Leone co-founder Lorenzo Antinori. Photo: Jocelyn Tam
For over a decade, Hong Kong has been at the forefront of Asia’s bar scene. In 2011, Ozone opened, setting a record as the highest bar in the world, and 12 months later came the launch of Quinary, Hong Kong’s ground zero for molecular mixology. In the years that followed, many other concepts specialising in high-end service and a more “scientific” approach to bartending started to crowd the streets of Central – the likes of The Old Man, Argo and Artifact to name but a few. When The Old Man was ranked Asia’s best bar in 2019, molecular mixology was well and truly king in Hong Kong.
The staff at Honky Tonks Tavern. Photo: Handout
The staff at Honky Tonks Tavern. Photo: Handout
Trends come and go, though, and in recent years there has been a shift in the bar scene, with guests opting for concepts positioning themselves as neighbourhood bars, rather than hotel-based venues and other high-end spots. This movement was solidified at Asia’s 50 Best Bar Awards last year, which crowned Bar Leone first place in Asia, and second on the World’s Best Bars list for 2024.

While there is more than enough room in the city for every kind of concept, we asked three bartenders and owners across the city – Honky Tonks Tavern’s Jake Erder, The Pontiac’s Jen Queen and Bar Leone’s Lorenzo Antinori – for their take on this trend, and why Hong Kong might be steering towards a more casual beverage experience.

Outside Honky Tonks Tavern for their fourth-anniversary celebration in 2024. Photo: Handout
Outside Honky Tonks Tavern for their fourth-anniversary celebration in 2024. Photo: Handout

“If you look around Honky, you’ll find a museum of the American beverage world,” says Erder. “Over the years, we’ve sourced vintage artworks, bottles, cans and other memorabilia from different eras. After working here for two years I still find little treasures as we are forever changing the decor.”

For Erder, the main appeal of the city’s neighbourhood bars is their comforting vibe. This is crucial as before a customer even opens the menu, the atmosphere, decor and overall feel of a bar are the first noticeable elements. Whether someone is blown away by the incredible interior design or has an irresistible urge to sing along to the playlist, a good atmosphere makes passers-by curious and keen to step inside.

Antonio Lai, the award-winning Hong Kong mixologist behind bars like Quinary, Origin and The Envoy. Photo: Handout
Antonio Lai, the award-winning Hong Kong mixologist behind bars like Quinary, Origin and The Envoy. Photo: Handout

Some of Hong Kong’s fancier bars can feel a little intimidating to the casual visitor. Upon entering Honky Tonks Tavern though, guests are immediately welcomed into a cosy and nostalgic space. The twinkling lights and wooden features give the bar a homely feel that guests can easily relax into.

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