Dish in Focus: Dressed crab at Magistracy Dining Room
Chef Alyn Williams from MDR uses Dungeness crabs for the flavourful dish, served playfully in the shell next to warm crumpets and curried mayo
The British culinary legacy in Hong Kong is an odd one. On the one hand, there’s an obvious and daily debt that stretches from the city’s cha chaan teng culture, with its milk tea and scrambled eggs on toast, to the lingering affection for afternoon tea and its assortment of sandwiches and other nibbles. But when it comes to bona fide British restaurants, there’s a conspicuous dearth.
Magistracy Dining Room is unashamedly British. Describing itself as “a timeless London restaurant”, the concept aims to bring a little of Simpson’s in the Strand – think roast meats and other British classics, served in an atmosphere of historic sophistication and class – to Central.
The rib of beef has been Magistracy’s star attraction since day one but new dishes introduced by executive chef Alyn Williams, who joined last year, have been gaining favour – none more so than the dressed Brighton Beach crab.
“Dressed crab is a classic dish that’s quite common in British coastal restaurants,” explains Williams. “It’s usually a mix of white and brown crabmeat with chopped egg and parsley, all mixed together and served in the shell of the crab … sometimes with mayonnaise. I love the idea of taking a simple dish that is really representative of Britain, then elevating it with some finesse.”
Williams elevates the dish in a number of ways, starting with the crustacean itself. The London-born chef has chosen to use Dungeness crabs, from the coasts of North America, which are typically more juicy than those found around the British Isles. The meat is cooked in a stock made with citrus fruit, red wine vinegar and brown sugar to help accentuate the flavours.
“It’s juicy and sweet, and we leave it quite chunky for good texture,” says Williams of the crabmeat, explaining the dish’s preparation. “Then it’s mixed with diced egg whites, pickled shimeji mushrooms and cucumber cubes so there are a lot of flavour ‘pops’ as you eat the dish. Each mouthful is a bit different from the last.”
Perhaps the most noteworthy part of the dish is not even the crab itself but the crumpets served on the side. As well as providing additional layers of flavour and texture, the crumpets, made from a fermented batter, are simply a fun way to consume this dish. Not that they were easy to perfect, however.
