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Foreign ice cream is no longer cool in China. Here’s why that matters

As in many other areas, young Chinese are turning away from global brands like Häagen-Dazs in favour of cheaper, nimbler local rivals

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Global ice cream brands are losing market share in China as consumers opt for cheaper, more innovative local varieties. Photo: Reuters
He Huifengin Guangdong

For years, Feng Hui, an operations manager living in Guangzhou, made a tradition of taking her daughter Claire to celebrate her birthday at a Haagen-Dazs store near her home.

But this month, the 14-year-old had other ideas: she told her mother she wanted to spend her birthday at a popular local tea bar with her friends.

“Chinese teenagers now prefer domestic brands – they look great, and new products are coming out every month that tempt them to take selfies and post on social media,” Feng said.

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The birthday cake also got a makeover. Instead of a Haagen-Dazs ice cream cake – which used to be a byword in China for luxury and sophistication – Claire chose a custom-made cake from a local bakery featuring her favourite video game character.

In her eyes, Haagen-Dazs is simply “not cool” – a sentiment that is becoming common among young Chinese, reflecting broader shifts in the country’s consumer landscape.

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From ice cream to candy, beverages and beyond, foreign brands that once dominated the Chinese market are losing ground to domestic rivals, which are not only outcompeting them on price, but often also on branding and product innovation.
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