TREASURE dome

DRAMATIC SETTING

Joel Robuchon's restaurant recently moved from Hotel Lisboa to the Grand Lisboa Hotel and took on a new name. Its new home creates a dramatic setting for what it describes as French haute cuisine, which it definitely is. Situated at the top of the dome of the bulbous building, the place has fantastic views of the city. The d?r matches the high-end dishes, with a stunning crystal chandelier and tableware featuring top names such as Christofle, Riedel and Baccarat.

But we were there for the dining experience, and the set lunch was nothing short of memorable. For starters, the crabmeat 'ravioli' was actually cold and very refreshing. This was quickly followed by sublime caviar jelly with cauliflower cream, sweetcorn veloute and lemongrass cream, thin couscous and chive topped with caviar. Each little package melted in the mouth.

Next came pan-fried angled sea bass with five spices and verjus sauce, perfectly cooked and topped with finely diced vegetables to play on the textures and flavours. Another main was roasted guinea fowl and foie gras served with potato confit that was very tender.

Those with a sweet tooth will have a field day sampling items on the dessert trolley presented tableside. It has everything from Napoleon to pies, profiteroles and ice cream. There are also more than 8,000 wines on the list to suit every budget. BC