A streetcar you'll desire

Festival time in New Orleans is looming and if you fancy visiting during Mardi Gras (February) or Jazz Fest (April and May), now's the time to book. At any time of year, however, this city is dedicated like no other to eating, drinking and having a good time. A few handy hints will help you suck the very best out of The Big Easy, like a Louisiana crawfish from its shell.

The historic French Quarter is where you'll want to stay, and there's a huge range of hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs. The best address in town, though, is the Omni Royal Orleans Hotel.

Half a block from the hotel is Brennan's, renowned for having one of America's most indulgent breakfast menus. A typical Brennan's breakfast goes like this: Brandy Milk Punch; Southern baked apple doused in cream and served with cinnamon toast and chicory-laced coffee; crabmeat omelette with sauteed mushrooms; and Bananas Foster - one whole banana sliced lengthways, flambeed in white rum, banana liqueur and brown sugar, served over vanilla ice cream.

It's just a few minutes' walk from the restaurant to the streetcar stop on Canal Street, where you can embark on one of America's quintessential urban rail journeys. In operation since 1835, this is the world's oldest streetcar line. It runs through the Garden District, past dozens of grand 19th century houses, fronted by ornate lead-light windows and stately columns and verandas. Rattle past Loyola University before hopping off at Audubon Park for a stroll to the Mississippi River or a visit to the zoo.