Gough Street, a quiet thoroughfare on the blurry boundary between Central and Sheung Wan, was once dominated by printing businesses. But high rents brought by gentrification have seen most of those establishments replaced by boutiques and bistros.
One of the few remaining shops is Wai Ho Printing Labels and its sister company, Keung Hing Printing Press. Boss Cheung Siu-wai says Wai Ho has been in business for 35 years, printing labels, letterheads and envelopes. 'Before there were many printing shops - but now we're almost the only one,' he says.
Across the street are further echoes of the past at the Sing Heung Yuen dai pai dong. Next to it is a plaque inscribed with 'The Four Desperados', referring to Sun Yat-sen, Chen Shao-bai, Yang Heling and Yau Lit, who met at 8 Gough Street to discuss the overthrow of the Qing dynasty. The shop where they met, Yang Yao Ji, was torn down long ago and only the plaque remains.
Buildings on Gough Street are coming and going at an ever- faster rate. Every few seconds the ground shakes from pile-driving work.
Mee Lun and Shin Hing streets, both pedestrian-only 'ladder streets', link Gough Street to Hollywood Road. Homeware store Xava on Mee Lun Street is typical of the new arrivals in the area and sells 'home essentials' that look anything but - bright throw pillows, retro cookie jars.
On the other side of the steps, flattened cardboard boxes are stacked outside Ngai Sang Paper Box, which is connected to sister shop Ngai Sang Printing & Design. A glimpse inside shows workers stripped to the waist, manning traditional printing presses.