Maritime meander

Sampans and 'walla-wallas', or water taxis, have long since disappeared from Victoria Harbour, but this small-scale water traffic is alive and well in Aberdeen. The town's waterfront is very much a working harbour, and is still home to a large fishing fleet. Perhaps combined with a shopping trip to Horizon Plaza, a tour of Aberdeen Harbour allows you to spend time hopping from boat to boat without going as far as the outlying islands.

Reach the waterfront by taking the pedestrian underpass from Aberdeen's main bus station. The local district board has made efforts to reconnect with the neighbourhood's rich maritime heritage. There are good reasons for doing so. It's likely that the sheltered Aberdeen anchorage was the true source of the name Hong Kong, or Fragrant Harbour. Long before colonial times, British ships used to stop at this bustling 'incense harbour' to take on supplies on their way to Canton, now Guangdong.

Roaming sampans will take you on sightseeing tours of the harbour - there are seven stations they will call at on both sides of the waterway.

Negotiate your own price. And, of course, there are the shuttle boats that will take you out to the Jumbo and Tai Pak floating restaurants. But the humble sampan is also used as public transport by people who want to cross from Aberdeen to the neighbouring island of Ap Lei Chau. The sailing costs only HK$1.80, and you shouldn't be surprised that some of these quaint wooden sampans now take Octopus cards.