The petite Indian city of Bundi has played muse to artists - most famously, writer Rudyard Kipling, photographer Virginia Fass and poet Rabindranath Tagore - but it has managed to deflect the prying eyes of the tour groups and backpackers. They have come, seen and conquered the rest of Rajasthan - pink Jaipur, blue Jodhpur and golden Jaisalmer - but overlook sandy, brown Bundi, despite its palaces and great fortress.
Perhaps for that reason the town's rough charm remains undiminished. Tucked into a valley at the foot of the Aravalli mountain range, Bundi, which dates back to the 12th century, remains a figurative crevice in the folds of time.
Water is the most precious commodity in this desert town but is easily shared; young and old alike sit on the roads ladling out cool drinking water to passers-by.
Bundi has more than 50 ancient stepwells, called baoli, which served not just as reservoirs but also as social hubs for the women of the palace - places to meet, bathe, chat and catch up on news. Most have fallen into disrepair but even today women meet at the common wells to gossip as they draw water, before walking the narrow streets, delicately balancing pots on their heads.
The most famous stepwell is Raniji ki Baoli, the queen's well. The gate is locked and the watchman is asleep under a tree when we arrive just after noon. He slowly comes around as we shake him awake, his breath reeking of alcohol. He informs us that visitors are no longer allowed to see the baoli and that the gate will remain locked, and would we mind going away so he can sleep in peace.
Built in 1699 by Rani Nathavatji, this 46-metre-deep baoli is one of the largest in the area. It is said to have served as a private swimming pool for the royal ladies, a fact illustrated by exquisite arches and delicate carvings that seem too elaborate for commoners. But today, the stepwell, which was once said to hold enough water for the entire kingdom, is dry. Even without water (and even when seen through locked gates), Raniji ki Baoli presents a pretty sight, complemented by flocks of pigeons taking flight from their perches above the columns on hearing our voices.
There's little doubt that Kipling - the Mowgli man, as he is referred to here - is Bundi's favourite son.