Japan often conjures up images of hyper-paced, futuristic cities with quirky attractions and even quirkier fashions. Less well known are the tranquil attractions of Western Honshu, in particular the jewel-like islands dotting its Inland Sea.
According to local mythology, these islands are the oldest part of Japan and the surrounding waters have been a major transportation route since ancient times. Now the scenic area offers an artistic and spiritual alternative to the usual Tokyo/Kyoto itinerary, with plenty to pique the interest of even the most seasoned Japan travellers.
Using Hiroshima as my base, I take the shinkansen (bullet train) to Miyajima-guchi and catch a ferry to the island of Miyajima.
A 20-minute ferry ride from the mainland, Miyajima is an entirely different world. The boat ride takes us past one of Japan's most iconic images: the vermillion tori (gate) of Itsukushima, which rises majestically out of the water at high tide, but can be walked to across mudflats at low tide.
Near the tori is the floating shrine of Itsukushima-jina, a brightly painted and ornately carved structure that stages noh (musical drama) performances in the late afternoon.
The island celebrates the arrival of autumn and the rice harvest in inimitable fashion, and the shrine is where it all begins. A two-metre rice spoon is given a Shinto blessing and residents dressed in bright yukata parade around the island, fuelled by stops for freshly grilled oysters and beer. Families crowd around to watch and join in the procession - the children brandish their own big rice spoons and yell themselves hoarse. Shop owners compete good-naturedly for customers, offering their excellent maple-leaf biscuits. Shouts of wasshoi! (lift!) echo through the island as the spoon is waved at shops to ensure continued good business.