Through my mask, I survey the scene in the clear, shallow waters - shoals of striped butterfly fish darting in and out among the coral and sea urchins that make spiky shadows on the seabed. Coming up to the surface, the only vessel on the horizon is a solitary speedboat idly floating by the jetty, the beach set against a backdrop of lush vegetation and endless blue sky. All is quiet save for the lazy lap of the waves onto the powdery sand.
This is Song Saa on Cambodia's Koh Rong archipelago, where clear blue waters and tranquil beaches that rival the Maldives lie in abundance. Situated 32 kilometres south of Sihanoukville, the adjacent islands of Koh Ouen and Koh Bong is the site of Song Saa Island Resort, Cambodia's first eco-luxe development. Owned by Australian entrepreneurs Rory and Mel Hunter, it comprises six bungalows and 14 villas, which are available for holiday rental. All are due to open next year.
Three million tourists are expected to visit Cambodia this year, with most heading from Siem Reap directly to the ruins of Angkor Wat. But as extraordinary as the Angkor complex is there is more to this country than its ancient temples - the swathes of golden sand beaches line the coast around Sihanoukville and Ream, which styles itself as the Cambodian Riviera. The opening of Sihanoukville airport next year will make coastal attractions more accessible and hoteliers are gearing up to meet the needs of more affluent travellers.
The Song Saa resort, for example, will feature a spa built in the rainforest canopy, three bars and two restaurants, one of which is built over the water 100 metres out from the island, with charges set at between US$400 and US$500 per night.
But the Hunters have established a fully policed, privately funded, protected marine area at the resort. Covering one million square metres, it is monitored by marine biologist Bart Kluskens, a full-time staff member.
'We're taking a triple bottom line approach, where social and environmental factors line up alongside the financial,' says Rory Hunter. 'We've been inspired by the Maldives and looked at places like Six Senses and want to keep Song Saa similarly small and exclusive.'
This slice of untouched paradise is admittedly difficult to reach at present: Sihanoukville is a three-hour car journey from Phnom Penh, then it's 30 minutes by boat to the island. But that will change with the opening of Sihanoukville airport.
