Perhaps no other city has witnessed the birth of so much history. The origins of philosophy, literature, art and political thought can be traced back to Athens. At every turn, the past is on show and no more so than on the Metro and at the new jewel in the city's crown: the Acropolis Museum.
Construction of the Metro, lines 2 and 3 of the city's rail network and an inexpensive way to get around, started in 1991 and the ongoing project has become the biggest archaeological excavation in the area, with more than 50,000 objects recovered thus far.
The Metro combines commuting with culture; major stations feature displays of archaeological finds as well as art by contemporary Greek artists.
As you climb station steps into the hullabaloo of city life, you immediately become part of a 'moving feast' and there's no better place to experience it than the Plaka, the old market quarter. Late afternoon is the best time; the usually noisy alleys are quiet as the afternoon sun drives everyone indoors - it's as if the whole city is dozing before the evening begins.
This is the time for strolling; most restaurants are closed but here and there, the doors to tiny cafes are ajar. Order a Pernod and water to sip while you contemplate the majesty of the best-known symbol of Greece: the Parthenon.
Perched atop the sheer plateau of the Acropolis, it shadows the Plaka and commands a breathtaking view of the surrounding valley and, in the distance, the harbour that Homer said witnessed the launch of a thousand ships. Built by Pericles on the ruins of a much older building, the temple was constructed in the name of Athena and once housed a statue of the goddess wrought from gold and ivory and standing more than 11 metres tall. In the Parthenon is invested an entire civilisation's knowledge and aesthetic values. Plundered by successive occupiers and buccaneers, many of the Parthenon's treasures were carted off as booty or curios.
