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Lauren Crothers

62 Hollywood Road, Central

Tel: 2542 1991

Open: Sunday-Thursday noon-10pm (last orders), Friday and Saturday noon-10.30pm

Cuisine: Casual European cafe.

Ambience: Loud, chatty and  friendly. Tables are close together, so the  chances of hearing your neighbours' conversation - and them hearing yours - is high.

Price: About HK$250 for a three-course dinner without wine and 10 per cent service charge.

Pros: The staff are very accommodating. When our mains  took a while coming, a waitress brought us  bread  to snack on. When my guest's steak  arrived undercooked,  it was whisked  away and  soon replaced.     We were also    given complimentary shoestring fries and  our glasses of wine were topped up free of charge.

Cons:  There's nothing  particularly negative about  eating here,  but a few things  niggled. Half the  bread   was hard and inedible, and we had to ask for oil and vinegar. Tables are  close, so if you're sitting by  a wall,  getting in and out can be tricky.

Recommended dishes: The starter of grilled quail with bacon, chestnuts, boiled duck egg and celery (above, a bargain for only HK$72) was a winner.  The meat was succulent and brimming with flavour,  accented  by the smoky bacon aroma. The pear and goat's cheese salad (HK$54) - mounds of rocket and chunks of cheese and pear amid lashings of tangy vinaigrette - was  also enticing.  The pan-grilled snapper (HK$123) was  enjoyable - although not as  delicious as the quail.  The fish came on a bed of mash with  grilled vegetables, all of which  worked well together.    The steak and fries (HK$148) - when it eventually arrived, medium rather than rare - was wonderful. The juicy steak was tender and the  shoestring  fries crunchy.    For dessert, the Shaker  lemon pie (HK$48) was tangy yet sweet with a lovely crust,  and the cheesecake (HK$48) was one of the creamiest I've come across in my search for the perfect version.

What else? Bricolage 62 is sister restaurant to Tribute (on Elgin Street), which serves set lunches and dinners.



Bricolage 62