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It's a jungle out there

Reading Time:3 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Karen Jackman

'Oooh my God! That thing is huge! Don't move, let it crawl off your head. Mavis ... come and look at this! It's huge!' Mavis trots over excitedly, joined by an equally eager group of jungle trekkers, each trying to peek at the multi-legged, multi-coloured monster arachnid perched elegantly on the rim of my fake Gucci sunglasses.

If you are going to step out into the wilds, especially into something as intense and magnificent as Malaysia's Taman Negara, one of the world's oldest tropical rainforests, it's as certain as death and taxes you'll be bitten, stung, scratched, bruised and possibly mauled by a wild creature. But being in a place so peaceful and relatively untouched by 'progress' makes it worth the discomfort.

Trekking, rafting and animal spotting are all part of the fun of a three-day exploration. Numerous reliable tour operators can introduce you to the wilderness of Malaysia's largest national park; I chose NKS Travel, based in Kuala Lumpur, which made the convoluted journey from the capital to Taman Negara - by plane or train, several buses and a raft - as smooth as possible.

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The rainforest, about 130 million years old, spans the states of Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang in peninsular Malaysia. It was declared a conservation area in 1938 and covers 4,343 square kilometres of primary virgin forest. Naturally, it is a haven for thousands of species of mammal, bird, plant ... and bug. Which brings us back to the tense situation developing around a burned-out log in an Orang Asli tribal settlement in the heart of the jungle.

The Orang Asli, who generously allow tourists to visit them and, surprisingly, don't ask for money, are the original nomadic inhabitants of Taman Negara. They happily allow visitors to try their poison blowpipes and demonstrate how to start a fire without matches.

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It is during a fire-making demonstration that Mavis, a school teacher from Canada, and her friends inspect the enormous spider that is trying to make friends. I am about to have a panic attack when our guide, Sharif, comes to the rescue. Striding over, he grabs the sunglasses and tosses them into the undergrowth.

Taman Negara conservationists are proud of their bug collection and visitors to the park are treated to regular night treks focusing on bug watching. Crawling creatures include fat, fierce red ants, which march determinedly along the forest floor, occasionally climbing tourists' legs to take small, vicious bites from their inner thighs, and leeches, which furtively suck blood from trekkers' ankles.

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