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Wilson Leung

Before 1842, Hong Kong was a collection of barren rocks: until the British came and built the shimmering metropolis that we know and love today. Or so we're used to thinking. The slogan of the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence (above, tel: 2569 1500), which celebrates its first birthday on August 1, should be enough to make us reconsider: 'Discover Hong Kong's 600-year history of coastal defence', it boldly invites. Sorry, 600 years?

Of course, the spectacular vista is enough to make the trip worthwhile. Built on the site of the old Lei Yue Mun Fort, the Museum has a commanding view of the surrounding sea and the opposite shore. The grounds resemble a park more than a museum: paved walkways, well-tended shrubs, shady trees - as well as a number of nifty-looking cannons - make the place both beautiful and comfortable.

The architecture will also impress (as it did the Hong Kong Institute of Architects, which gave its top accolade to the complex): the main exhibition area, formerly the core of the fort, is completely covered by a huge tent-like structure that is not just aesthetically pleasing - it also fills the central area of the museum with natural light.

All this would be moot if the exhibitions were uninteresting. But not to worry, they are both fascinating and well-curated. Historic relics abound - many obtained from museums around the world - items such as Qing dynasty weapons, ancient maps of Hong Kong and memorabilia from the Japanese occupation. Learn how, 600 years ago, Hong Kong was already a strategic coastal outpost (and a pirate haven), or how Chinese, British, Indian and Canadian troops fought side by side in a desperate defence against the Japanese onslaught of 1941.

Another reminder of Hong Kong's ancient history is the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb (tel: 2386 2863), an ancient tomb putatively from the Eastern Han dynasty (AD 25-250). Though the cross-shaped tomb itself is disappointingly small, it is historically important, since it is the only Han dynasty tomb ever unearthed in Hong Kong. History buffs will also be interested in the accompanying exhibition, featuring almost 60 pottery and bronze pieces that were found in the tomb (no human remains, though).

Astutely, the authorities have placed an imitation Han dynasty garden right next to the tomb, complete with pavilions, craggy rock formations, bamboo and willow trees, a pond, and even a stone boat in the shape of a dragon. It's enough to make one forget the surrounding traffic, air pollution and ugly public housing.

Less ancient, but no less historically significant is the Law Uk Folk Museum (tel: 2896 7006), a 200-year-old Hakka village house that has been restored. Even though it has been 2,000 years since they first migrated from northern China - hence their name, meaning literally 'guest people' - the Hakkas have retained their distinctive language, customs and architecture. Until relatively recently, Chai Wan was home to many Hakka farming villages, however, rapid urban development has left Law Uk as the sole remaining example of traditional Hakka housing.

Drugs. Triads. Cops. No, not the latest Young And Dangerous movie, but rather, the Police Museum (tel: 2849 7019), situated at the old Wan Chai Gap station, featuring such paraphernalia as the head of the Sheung Shui Tiger, shot in 1915 for terrorising villagers; a triad ceremonial altar, and even an old-style heroin workshop. Given the 157-year history of Asia's Finest (pictured left), the museum is much smaller than expected - especially lacking exhibits on the force's recent history - but it's still interesting to see how turbaned Sikhs formed a large part of the police force in its early days, or how the nefarious weapons used by triads included butcher knives, sharpened pipes and a belt with a buckle that doubles as a dagger.

Getting there

Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence:

Open: 10am-5pm daily, including Sundays and public holidays. Closed on Thursdays. Admission fee: standard $10, concession $5, group $7. Ten-minute walk from Shau Kei Wan MTR.

Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb:

Open: 10am-1pm, 2pm-6pm daily. Sundays and public holidays: 1pm-6pm. Closed on Thursdays. Free Admission. Ten-minute walk from Cheung Sha Wan MTR.

Law Uk Folk Museum

Open: 10am-1pm and 2pm-6pm daily. Sundays and public holidays: 1pm-6pm. Closed on Mondays. Free Admission. Three-minute walk from Chai Wan MTR.

Police Museum

Open: Tuesdays 2pm-5pm, Wednesday to Saturday 9am-5pm. Free Admission. Take NWF Bus number 15 from Exchange Square, get off at the stop between Stubbs Road and Peak Road.



The SECRET history